National Association of Dog obedience instructors, inc.
Helen Cariotis, Editor, NADOI Notes
1322 Greenstone Lane
Duncanville TX 75137
Helen@caninecounselors.org
Desensitization Program to Overcome Fear of People
Anita Crafton, NADOI member #463
Idaho member Anita Crafton tells me that this protocol, although possibly time-consuming to carry out for the pet owner, has worked well for her many times. Anita’s personal experience covers many disparate breeds, from the flock guardians to the herders.
This article describes a desensitization program that I gleaned from John Rogerson in the mid-90s. Because it requires the help of a person whom the dog already trusts, as well as a significant time investment, I’ve found it useful primarily in cases of an extremely fearful dog where the owner is totally committed to the dog’s rehabilitation.
First, you need to determine what the dog's fight-flight distance is by watching her behavior when a “Scary Person” (“SP”) comes into view. The “safe zone” is the distance where the dog notices the “SP” but does not react unduly. It may be quite a long distance at first. For example, indoors, the “SP” may have to be in another room at first.
Next, pair "Pleasant Things" with the presence of the “SP”. Pleasant Things are – games, special attention, treats, regular meal, anything this dog likes!
Here’s the hardest part: Withdraw attention from the dog so that the only time she receives attention is when that attention is paired with the presence of the “SP” (although at a “safe” distance as determined above). When the “SP” is not present, ignore the dog as much as possible.
As the dog begins to accept the presence of the “SP” at a distance, reduce the distance just enough to create mild worry to the dog. If the dog is overcome with fear, you will lose what gains you have made so far.
When you are able to have the “SP” in the same room without overly stressing the dog, you can pair the dog's regular mealtime with the presence of the “SP” as often as possible.
Always start with a hungry dog! Prepare the dog's meal as usual, allowing her to watch. Set up the room as follows:
Trusted Helper & dog - Doorway  - (6 to 10 feet if possible) -
| dish 
owner + “SP” with food
The Trusted Helper will stand with dog on leash just out of sight in the next room. “TH” should hold leash quietly, unobtrusively, so as not to distract the dog. Owner and “SP” will be at a position near a counter or table, seated in chairs.
A. Break the meal into 10 portions.
B. Owner and “SP” together place one portion of food into the dish, walk to point X and place dish on the floor, then retreat to their chairs and sit down.
C. Helper brings the dog in, allows her to enter the room with as little restraint as possible. The idea is that she stumbles upon - dinner! But just one bite. Dog is allowed to eat that food, and then helper takes her back out through the doorway. If the dog isn’t interested in eating, that means that her stress level is too high and there needs to be more distance between the “SP” and the dog's dish.
D. When the dog has been taken back out of sight, owner and “SP” approach the dish, pick it up (have the “SP” pick up the dish so his scent is on the dish), place another portion of food inside, and place it back down on the floor in the same position. Return to chair and sit down. Dog brought in, allowed to eat, then taken back out.
E. This is repeated for the remaining 8 portions. If the dog is too upset to finish any portion, she is taken out through the door, and the remainder of that portion "goes away forever" (dumped back in the bag, if dry food). The dog is only exposed to the fearsome “SP” at a safe distance and seated (non-threatening). At this point she is not allowed to see the “SP” approach and pick up her dish. The food is always in place when she enters, but the “SP”’s scent is on the dish.
Next Meal
A. Dog is taken out the door on leash, but door is left open so the dog can watch. Prepare dog's meal as usual. Have the “SP” put one portion of food into dish, then carry the dish to point X and put it down. Return to the chairs and be seated.
B. Dog is brought in and allowed to eat the portion, then taken back through the doorway, but allowed to watch. Repeat for the remaining 9 portions. Same rules apply. If she is too nervous to eat a complete portion, that portion disappears. (Note: The dog should not miss more than 50% of her meal. If she is refusing to eat 50% or more, the stress level is probably too high.)
When the Dog is Handling this Well
Next Meal
A. Chair is placed one foot closer to . Repeat with half the portions, with the dog being taken out the door but allowed to watch between each portion. If all is going well,
B. Move the chair one foot closer.
Repeat this procedure until the dog is able to eat her portions right next to the chair. This sounds like it is more trouble to set up than it really is. It usually does not take all that much time, and it works! When a life necessity is paired with a fear, it reduces the fear tremendously.
The Final Step
When the dog is doing well eating the portions chair-side, it is then time to modify one step further:
A. With the dog remaining at her dish, unrestrained but wearing the leash, owner adds one portion of food to the dish while the “SP” stands next to her.
B. If that goes okay for 5 portions, have the “SP” place the remaining 5 portions in the dish, one at a time. This, then, pairs the scariest thing in the world with a life necessity - and makes the dog realize that the “SP” is actually responsible for her receiving the food.
A side benefit to this stage is that it also helps teach the dog that when hands come near her dish, it is not to take away, but to give. This can help change the dog's attitude from possessive to anticipation.
If the scary “SP” happens to be a small child, the toughest part is that they are not puppets, and the chances of them remaining quiet through the whole procedure are slim! I take whatever I can get and call it good. If the child gets fussy at any time, it is better to call it off than to allow the fussing to further scare the dog. Just feed the dog the rest of her meal as usual, minus any portions that she lost. (It never hurts to sharpen the dog's hunger pangs just a bit.)
How long it will take to achieve success and the level of success depends on the dog, the level of fear, and owner commitment. The whole process could take anywhere from a couple of weeks to just a few days in cases of moderate fear. However, in order for the dog to “generalize” the behavior to other “SP”s, this whole process must be repeated with additional people. Introduce additional individuals to the dog in the same manner, starting at square one. The more friends you can get to help you, the more likely the dog will be to generalize her behavior to most people.
The National Association of Dog Obedience Instructors is interested in improving dog obedience training and instruction. Won’t you join us? For more information on NADOI, the requirements for membership, or the name of the NADOI instructor nearest you, visit our web site at www.nadoi.org. You may also write us at NADOI, PMB 369, 729 Grapevine Hwy, Hurst TX 76054-2805 (attn: Corresponding Sec). Please address reprint requests to the NADOI Notes editor.
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